Fonda Mexican’s margarita paddle… a must-try. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Burrito with slow-cooked Barbacoa beef… with sweet caramelised onion, crushed tortilla chips, chipotle aioli and chimichurri. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Nachos… loaded with ingredients, but in a deconstructed kind of way. Photo: Wendy Johnson

The Mexico City slow-cooked, pulled-pork burrito… with lime rice and basil-jalapeno aioli. Photo: Wendy Johnson 

The Fonda burrito bowl… with black beans, roasted corn salsa, smoky chipotle dressing, shredded cabbage and feta. Photo: Wendy Johnson

In Mexico, a “fonda” is a relaxed unofficial restaurant, operated when a family chooses to open their home to the local community. Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON reports Canberra’s new fonda lives up to the reputation.

FONDA Mexican in the city has a colourful fit out, vibrant food and bloody good margaritas. 

In Mexico, a fonda is a relaxed unofficial restaurant, operated when a family chooses to open their home to the local community. It’s all about good times, great stories and food with full-bodied flavours and Canberra’s fonda lives up to the reputation. 

New in the city, Fonda Mexican’s margarita paddle is a must-try ($32). Out of the four we picked the makrut lime and chilli as the winner, followed by the coconut, chilli mango and then the watermelon and lime.

We shared the nachos ($21 or $26 if you want to add more black beans or meat). The tastes were there but the cheese wasn’t entirely melted, which took the fun away. The dish was loaded with ingredients but in a deconstructed kind of way. We expected a mixed guac, but got a chunk of avo in one spot, a pile of tomatoes in another and so on, making sharing a slight challenge. 

One of our party loves “bowls” and decided on the burrito version. It was a huge serve, and a festive celebration of the flavours and textures Mexico is so famous for – Adobo black beans, roasted corn salsa, smoky chipotle dressing, guac, shredded cabbage, crumbly, salty feta and, of course, crunchy tortilla chips. Other choices include chargrilled chick, Barbacoa beef, roasted sweet potato, smoky fable or shitake mushrooms.

I’m a burrito lover so I opted for the Mexico City pulled pork ($20) which is a fluffy soft flour tortilla. The slow-cooked pork shoulder was juicy, and the lime rice and basil-jalapeno aioli were fantastic. The pineapple in the salsa could have been sweeter, but all up the combo of flavours worked a treat. 

Another friend had a burrito with slow-cooked Barbacoa beef, super juicy and smoky ($20). This version featured sweet caramelised onion, crushed tortilla chips, chipotle aioli and chimichurri. All burritos are stuffed with ingredients – and I mean stuffed.

Also available are Quesadillas with the 11-inch flour tortillas grilled. I thought both the smoky shitake ($19) and roasted sweet potato ($19) looked super interesting.

We had no room but bet the churros for dessert ($14 for two) would be excellent – crispy, fried pastries coated in cinnamon sugar and served with dulce de leche and chocolate dipping sauce. A very tactile dessert, indeed.

Fonda’s food line-up takes excellent care of vegetarians, vegans and those mindful of gluten.

It’s order at the bar and then service to your seat. The colour scheme inside is bright, light and fun. Two outdoor areas are available. We agreed the service was very attentive and friendly.