BAGNA caudu. Salsify. Katsuobushi. Moghrabieh. These are some elements in the dishes being whipped up by chef Sean McConnell in the kitchen at Monster.

Is it enough to make some diners feel they must cart in the famous “Larousse Gastronomique” (1100 pages plus) to interpret the menu? Do not fear, the staff at Hotel Hotel explain all dishes with finesse and confidence.

Sean, formerly from Mocan and Green Grout, has designed a menu that pushes the boundaries but don’t new food experiences make dining out intriguing?

Monster is open from crack of dawn until the wee hours of the morning.

The wine list salutes the best from local vineyards, with Michael Gray, front of house, spending serious time developing serious relationships with regional winemakers. Behind the expansive bar is Chester Mok, who regularly sources rare ingredients for his creations and even makes some from scratch.

The bar menu features plates such as the cured hiramasa kingfish, with smoked avocado and jalapeno. This stunning looking dish – very delicate in taste – is spring on a plate. The yabby jaffle, with crème fraiche and horseradish ($16), which friends recommended, was delicious and fun and we recommended to staff that it would also sit well on the breakfast menu.

The specials sounded divine and we couldn’t pass by the trout from the pristine Tumut region, cooked only on one side in a very hot pan, served with the core of a lettuce-braised, salmon roe and wasabi leaves. Overall the flavours were once more subtle, despite the salty contribution of the roe.

The selection of shared plates ranges from $17 to $29 and includes the twice-cooked WA octopus, chorizo, smoked potato and nettle (a powerful source of iron). The octopus was as tender as, the chorizo not overly strong and the potato an interesting twist. Perhaps it was just us but we expected a bit more pizazz with the flavours.

The eggplant with smoked goat’s curd, katsuobushi (dried, fermented and smoked tuna) and sesame was a treat, with the eggplant sliced like mini steaks and just the right texture.

The pulled lamb shoulder, with pistachio, yoghurt, vine leaf, pomegranate and brik was big on flavour – who can go wrong with a beautifully cooked, super tender lamb shoulder? And we worshipped the Clonakilla Shiraz 2012 that worked so perfectly with the rich reduction of the lamb ($75 a bottle).

Monster is an open-concept dining space near reception at Hotel Hotel (the kitchen is open concept, too). If you’re looking for a private dining space enquire after the Mosaic Room, featuring a wall of hand-crafted ceramic tiles made by Australian artist Gerard Havekes.

Open 6.30am-1am every day. Hotel Hotel, NewActon, licensed. No BYO. Call 6287 6287.