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Canberra Today 13°/17° | Friday, March 29, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Mussels to lift the soul

MUSSELS –  those sensational mollusks devoured daily around the world by those enamoured with the gazillion ways you can cook them – are the house specialty at Kingston’s Belgian Beer Café. 

Each 1kg pot comes with fries and creamy mayo made in-house. Eight styles are available, including blue cheese, Thai, Stella (made with beer – why didn’t I try that kind?) and chilli, which is what I craved.

Balinese-inspired, my mussels were created around a tomato and capsicum sambal ($32). The chilli had kick, but my tastebuds were confused by the volume of chunky celery. And, although most of the mussels were pristine clean, some had nasty beards rudely protruding between their shells, which would turn the stomachs of diners who just want to eat, not wrestle with, their food. However, there was no stopping me. I just pulled the beards off and kept ploughing through. I ate the whole kilo all by my little, old, self, enjoying a glass or two of wine along the way. 

My friend went for the mussels on the specials menu ($30), made with spicy Spanish chorizo (a generous amount), vegetables (again, too much celery) and cream. She loved them. And once we finished eating the mussels, we grabbed our spoons and finished off the soup left behind. My only wish was for fresh bread to soak up all the juices.

If you can’t stomach mussels don’t fear. The Belgian Beer Café’s other dishes will make you drool, such as the Belgian pork, veal and pistachio sausages served with good, old sauerkraut and beer jus ($25), or the roast confit pork belly, with Belgian stoemp ($28). Moments on the lips. Lifetimes on the hips, but oh-so-good for the soul.

Steak aficionados will hanker for the Black Angus scotch fillet and béarnaise sauce ($42 for 500 grams) or Wagyu Porterhouse with beer jus ($32). More moments on the lips. If you want a real treat, gather a group of four, call 24 hours in advance and order the Chateaubriand ($35 each).
But the beer here ain’t just for cooking. It’s for drinking and the long list of Belgium-imported exotic beers is impressive and all expertly poured the traditional way – amusing to watch.

The initial, very expensive fitout at Belgian Beer Café hasn’t changed much over the years. Mahogany-stained, solid oak features everywhere and the etched glass and engraved bar stools add a lovely touch. A small outdoor dining area soaks up the springtime sun.

The place has definitely aged a bit since I was last there several years ago, but that’s part of its sweet charm.

Belgian Beer Café, Jardine Street, Kingston. Open seven days. Call 6260 6511.

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Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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