Plastered, flattered, still waiting

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I’VE never been on wallpaper before. I mean, featured on wallpaper. My photo, that is. And a food review I’ve written. But there I am, plastered on the wall (and ceiling) of good, old Brodburger. With a good, old photo!

The Brodburger... “quality of beef patties is up there with the best”. Photos by Brent McDonald
The Brodburger… “quality of beef patties is up there with the best”. Photos by Brent McDonald
The little, red, gypsy caravan that was originally home to Brodburger at Bowen Park by the lake is now on display in front of its new home at the historic Canberra Glassworks. But are the burgers as good in this new location? We road tested them to see.

“Caravan classics” are still available, including regular, deluxe, chicken, veg or fish. You choose your cheese for the beef burgers (blue, brie, Swiss or cheddar) and prices are $13.50 to $17.50 (side of chips $2.50).

The hand-formed beef patties are automatically cooked medium, which is how I love them, although ones for mothers-to-be are well done with egg-free aioli. Kids are happy with baby burgers (around $8.50).

Brodburger is busy, busy, busy and we were told it would be a 30-minute wait (it was slightly longer than that).

Wendy in wallpaper... an earlier review on the wall of Brodburger.
Wendy in wallpaper… an earlier review on the wall of Brodburger.
My burger was with blue cheese, which added a nice dimension, and I love the buns Brodburger uses – soft and chewy. The quality of beef patties is up there with the best and they’re not too thin or too thick.

Meals come in red plastic containers lined with paper. The only concern with my friend’s cheeseburger was the cheese. It was “light on” and she actually opened the bun to check what was going on.

The fitout is great. Wine barrels line up outside near a bed planted with heaps of herbs and a little lime tree. You can rest your drink on the barrels while waiting for your meal (and you will wait – is Brodburger too popular for its own good for the size of its operations?).

Also outside are long communal tables under bright-red umbrellas. Other than the view (essentially a parking lot), it’s pretty right.

The inside area is glassed in and opens up in summer. On one side is a line of lovely, black bamboo trees. It’s noisy, and the heavy-duty playlist on our visit was exceptionally loud. It would have blown the head off of anyone with even a slight hangover!

Brodburger's onion rings.
Brodburger’s onion rings.
Brodburger is licensed, but the selection is limited. Wines are by Hunter Valley’s Tempus Two, although selections from Wild Oats will soon be available.

But are the burgers as good as they were by the lake? I reckon they are.

Brodburger takes phone and email orders. If you’re not keen to wait, I recommend ordering in advance.

Brodburger, Canberra Glassworks, 11 Wentworth Avenue, Kingston. Open Tuesday-Saturday, lunch and dinner, and Sunday lunch. Call 6162 0793.

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Wendy Johnson
Wendy Johnson: Food reviewer for Canberra CityNews magazine since 2004, covering stories for true foodies to digest.

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