A FRIEND of mine isn’t keen on pizzas. Fair enough, but to be honest I don’t get it: what’s there not to like?

Now, I’m not saying that all pizzas are created equally, because they aren’t. But the endless variety fascinates me. Thick dough. Thin dough. A gazillion scrumptious options for toppings. Fun to eat.

The number of pizza outlets in Canberra is anyone’s guess. One is relatively new to the Kingston Foreshore area, and that’s Il Portico, a woodfired pizza and pasta bar. It’s not on the “main strip” but rather sits close to Wild Duck on Giles Street.

I’ve been several times and will be several times more. I find the décor comforting, the staff friendly and the food tasty, honest and inexpensive. And I love to go with a group of friends when there’s lots of chatter.

Gluten-free bases are available on request and prices are set at an average of $18 for a small and $21 for a large with generous toppings, so it’s great value.

An Italian line-up of pizza would not be complete without the famous margherita, so beautiful with red tomato, green basil and white bocconcini. Would they be the colours of the Italian flag?

Fifteen other options are on the pizza list. Not too light on calories but heavy on taste is Italian sausage, shaved ham, mushrooms and earthy truffle oil pizza, and the Spanish chorizo, capsicum, feta and onion on tomato and mozzarella.

Those who love a rich pizza will enjoy one of my favourites and that’s the four cheeses: bocconcini, blue, feta and mozzarella topped with peppery rocket, shaved parmesan and aioli. To say that it’s rich… well, let’s not talk about it. Let’s just enjoy it, I thought.

I like to cut through my passion for pizza with a sensible salad and Il Portico’s selection starts with a simple fresh, seasonal version ($10.50) and includes a mesculine, rocket, feta, olives, tomato and roast capsicum with balsamic dressing ($12.50).

Heartier “meal-type” salads are available, including one with smoked salmon ($16.50) and another with chicken ($15.50). And you can’t go wrong with the pear and rocket salad with walnuts and shaved parmesan ($12.50).

Five pasta selections are available – choose fettuccine or rigatoni and then match it with a sauce ($18 to $20).

Il Portico’s wine list heavily features SA wines, including from McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Barossa Valley and Clare Valley. A nice Italian red is available, from Veneto, for $9 a glass or $35 a bottle. Il Portico offers all wines by the glass, which is super and they’re very reasonably priced ($7 to $9).

Il Portico. 75/71 Giles Street, Kingston. Hours vary so best to call, 6239 5044.