How the chefs keep it all straight is beyond me…

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“I asked what the fish was and winced when I was told: ‘I’m not sure, I think it starts with an M’. A bit of staff training is in order,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON after an otherwise enjoyable visit to a newish restaurant at Kingston Foreshore. 

The ceviche salad… the fresh fish happily took on the flavours of the chilli, lime, coriander and lemongrass dressing. Photo: Wendy Johnson

FISHERMAN’S Hook isn’t solely a seafood establishment, with a menu as big as the ocean and featuring duck, ribs, hot pots, steak, pasta, pork belly, lamb, chicken, and much, much more.

Wendy Johnson
Wendy Johnson.

There’s Italian, Brazilian, Asian, Spanish, Japanese, Indian and cuisine from many other countries, too. How the chefs keep it all straight is beyond me.

Fisherman’s Hook is relatively new on the Kingston Foreshore. It has a prime spot with a large outdoor area, lovely views of the water and comfy cloth chairs inside. Several other eateries have occupied the space before, starting with C Dine and last with Prego.

I was determined to have fish and, with such a massive menu, decided to concentrate instead on the more manageable lunch specials. The ceviche and market fish both caught my eye.

The prices are reasonable, especially for the portion size, with lunch specials on our visit starting at around $16 and topping off at around $28. The wine list isn’t expensive and the staff are lovely and eager to please.

We shared the cut-to-order ceviche salad ($25), in the mood for a fresh and lively start. The ceviche itself was impressive, with the fresh fish happily taking on the flavours of the chilli, lime, coriander and lemongrass dressing. It was presented on top of a huge mixed salad, but featuring tomatoes, onions and other ingredients that seemed to disrupt the flow.

Marlin and chips… a generous portion, but the fish seemed too firm and dense to be battered. Photo: Wendy Johnson

I then ordered from the “something special” section of the menu – lightly battered market fresh fish with battered chips, garden salad and tartar. I asked what the fish was and winced when I was told: “I’m not sure, I think it starts with an M”. A bit of staff training is in order.

The fish was confirmed to be Marlin when it was served and, while a generous portion, the batter wasn’t as light as I was expecting and somehow the fish seemed too firm and dense to be battered anyway. The chips were piping hot… and the salad, lovely and fresh.

One of our party ordered the Pad Thai, which was pleasant – not overly spicy, but definitely flavoursome ($16).

Wagyu sirloin…  three stacks of fancy, swirled potato mash, topped with a flower, accompanied the tender meat. Photo: Wendy Johnson

The last dish was the Wagyu sirloin and Fisherman’s Hook was more than happy to change the battered chips and salad for mashed potatoes and veggies ($28 for 200 grams). Three stacks of very-fancy-indeed swirled potato, topped with a flower, accompanied the tender meat.

Other items on the specials included a red curry ($19), chicken katsu (Japanese, $19), stir-fried rice ($16), a range of house burgers on brioche (several types and they sounded lovely – $15 to $19), salt and pepper calamari ($19), chicken parmigiana ($19) and a schnitty ($19). There’s no doubt Fisherman’s Hook has something for everyone.

Fisherman’s Hook, 17/19 Eastlake Parade, Kingston Foreshore. Dinner, Tuesday-Sunday; Lunch, Friday to Sunday.

 

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Wendy Johnson
Wendy Johnson: Food reviewer for Canberra CityNews magazine since 2004, covering stories for true foodies to digest.

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