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Canberra Today 1°/5° | Sunday, May 22, 2022 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Flavour rules at Ainslie’s cosy Inn

Autumn menus are popping up in dining establishments throughout the capital, including at The Inn, an upstairs extension of Edgar’s in Ainslie, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

Wendy Johnson.

THREE of us gathered in the dining room of The Inn, but would have been just as happy at The Terrace next door with its unique panorama of Telstra Tower and Mount Ainslie and colourful Canberra sunsets over the city.

The Inn is perfect for autumn and winter. The décor is warm and cosy, complete with a wood-lined bar and a more intimate décor.

Many dishes are cooked on the massive (and impressive) Asado grill, which adds incredible flavour. 

Our food journey began with oysters chargrilled in their own brine and served with soy sauce and desert lime on top. They were magical. 

Burrata lovers won’t be disappointed with The Inn’s version. Gorgeous with fig and apple chutney, vincotto and fresh peppery rocket ($23). The burrata was a perfect texture and the dish a pretty presentation. Some may feel the chutney a tad too sweet.

Another feast for the eyes was the citrus-cured salmon ($27) with a grapefruit dressing, slices of pink grapefruit, avocado placed for a bit on the Asado grill and pops of salty roe. The dish sang with flavour.

Chargrilled eggplant was next up with a lovely caponata. The eggplant was cooked to perfection and announced itself as an enticing dish for this time of year. Soul satisfying in every respect. 

Another soul-satisfying dish is the free-range roast chook, barbecued with earthy harissa. The chicken arrived atop a mound of corn and black barley with a half lemon (chargrilled) on the side ($36). It was mouth-watering and the combination and depth of flavour was amazing.

Our veggie hit was the wood-fired brussels sprouts, a generous serve for $12. The sprouts were taken to the next level with N’duja butter featuring hot salami and always a sensational addition to barbecued food.

The dishes came out at a nice pace and the knowledgeable service was with a smile. 

One of our party began with Canberra’s very own Heaps Normal non-alcoholic beer ($8.50). For wine we enjoyed a top drop from the “Old World” section of the menu, an Albarino from Spain ($74).

Our table was small for three people and the number of dishes we ordered. We felt cramped… also, the menu was challenging to read in parts because the text was faded (and the lights dim).

There’s a lot going on at Edgar’s, now truly a multi-purpose venue, including Wakefield’s Bar and Wine Room, which we want to return to explore for its exciting wine selection, snack menu featuring local produce and live entertainment. Mama Dough is also part of the family.

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Ian Meikle, editor

Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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