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Canberra Today 17°/21° | Friday, March 29, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

XX and OO for the celebrated XO

It’s been honoured with a Chef’s Hat in the “Good Food Guide 2023”, but that hasn’t changed the essence of XO. While chuffed with the award, the team exists only to do what they love most, which is creating innovative and modern dishes that pay homage to traditional south-east Asian cuisine… and doing so with an unwavering commitment to quality service, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON. 

I  WAS with two friends who hadn’t been to XO before (my last visit was too many moons ago) and the Narrabundah restaurant didn’t disappoint. Each dish was a knockout.

Wendy Johnson.

The Adobo dumplings are a work of art and a true feast for the eyes ($18). The Kaffir lime shone through with its citrus flavour and the crunchy chunks of rice crackers sprinkled on top delighted. We also adored XO’s take on Bun Cha ($12 each) which we eagerly rolled in lettuce like a freestyle spring roll. It’s no wonder these perfect parcels are as popular on the narrow streets of Hanoi as they are in elegant, fine-dining restaurants. The exciting combination of fresh herbs and a sensational Vietnamese dipping sauce covered all the bases. 

An award-winning dish was the beef tenderloin, sliced ever so carefully with the quality of the meat shining through ($25). Mint and cilantro (not to be confused with cilantro) added bursts of flavour. The beef melted in the mouth and, once more, the dish was a work of art.

We weren’t sure what to expect with XO’s Asian Bolognese with udon, chicken ragout and a wonderful 60-degree egg ($26) but applauded the creativity and enjoyed the combination of tastes. The texture of the egg was divine – the yolk a beautiful liquid and the white soft and creamy. 

Our next dish was the Char Siu, created with a marvellously marbled pork neck. The black bean and burnt scallion elements added depth of flavour ($45). We enjoyed it with a lovely looking and tasty iceberg salad. XO does iceberg total justice, with a Yuzu vinaigrette, dried mix seasoning and egg yolk ($18).

Last, but far from least, was a stunning end with a strawberry pavlova featuring white chocolate and lychee ($22). My bet is the Golden Gay Time, salted caramel mousse, with dulce de leche, coco pops, vanilla ice cream and Ovaltine would be a fun dessert to top off a meal ($22).

XO’s décor is designed around light wood features and lots of white, including light, floaty curtains dividing tables for privacy. A long bar runs along the left side of the restaurant. The décor is beautiful and cool contemporary. The wine bottle display is super attractive and super clever. 

Service is highly attentive, and the love is very apparent with everyone involved in the XO operation.

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Thank you,

Ian Meikle, editor

Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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