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Canberra Today 3°/9° | Sunday, April 28, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

More than moreable at memorable Morks

“An absolute standout was the Mussamun beef curry pie, with the tender, action-packed meat encased in flaky pastry.” Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON’s been back to Morks…

MORKS has been on the Canberra dining scene for yonks. I first visited when they were in Florey before they opened on the Kingston Foreshore in 2013. 

Wendy Johnson.

Fast forward to 2023 and Morks is still at the Foreshore and still tantalising tastebuds with exciting and, at times, unpredictable, contemporary Thai food. 

A fabulous deal is the $50 per person lunch banquet (minimum of two) and Morks is smart to offer super quick service (as in 15 minutes) for those who need speedy dining. For diners wanting something slower, that’s cool, too.

The five-course banquet kickstarts with a Vietnamese pancake packed with a zippy Thai noodle salad inside (squirt the fresh lime on top). The noodles were silky and soft, but not mushy, and tossed with sliced veggies and Asian herbs.

An absolute standout was the Mussamun beef curry pie, with the tender, action-packed meat encased in flaky pastry. It’s a dish that warms the heart and the pie was presented on a pool of long pepper jus, which was rich, full of flavour and held some heat. It’s worth heading to Morks for the banquet, just to indulge in this dish.

Morks has always done duck exceptionally well and this version, confit with plum sauce, was no exception. The bed of pickles helped cut through the sweetness of the sauce. It’s a perfect portion and the duck was incredibly tender.

With the duck we delighted in wok-tossed French beans and baby spinach (combined). The beans held crunch (no overcooking at Morks) and the dish was an exciting, vibrant green. 

To round out the banquet was old-school fried rice, and a hugely generous serve for two. The dish had texture with carrots and shallots and for those who love fried rice (as my friend especially does), we promise, it’s a thumb’s up.

Mork’s main menu features superb angel prawns ($28), which I’ve enjoyed many times. I was intrigued by the wild boar shoulder jungle curry with peppercorn and turmeric ($45). Perhaps another day…

Wine is chosen to complement Morks’ commitment to adventurous Thai cuisine. Non-alcoholic and alcoholic cocktails are up to $22. Sparklings start at $14/glass and $55/bottle. Whites from Australia, Italy and France, range from $14 to $20 a glass and $56 to $220/bottle (the latter for a special 2018 Chenin blanc, Loire Valley). Rosés are $15/glass and start at $60/bottle. Last, but not least, reds are $15 to $18/glass and $62 to $220/bottle (for a 2020 pinot noir, Sancerre).

Morks has both outdoor and indoor dining. Outdoors is protected by massive plant pots, which create a private garden feel. Indoors is open plan with a contemporary décor and rich colour palette.

 

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Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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