Bangkok fried chicken. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Grilled cos lettuce. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Tender pressed pork belly. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Beetroot carpaccio. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Duck breast. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Crispy squid. Photo: Wendy Johnson

A new owner and a new menu finds dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON at Queenies in Kingston.

I’M still dreaming about the beetroot carpaccio I had recently at Queenies. It looked divine on the plate, was perfectly executed and an innovative dish through and through ($19.50).

A group of us headed to Queenies for dinner, having booked the small, private dining area available and knowing that the place has a new owner who has taken charge of making delightful improvements. 

That includes a new menu with every dish gluten free (no compromise on presentation or taste) and many featuring Australian native elements.

One small plate we shared, and all loved, was the super tender but crispy squid with a bowl of creamy tartar sauce and slices of chilli for extra pizzazz ($22.50). 

From the same part of the menu arrived the tasty Bangkok fried chicken that we eagerly dipped into yummy Somtum syrup ($26.50).

Queenies really nails it with its miso eggplant, accompanied by macadamia crumb ($28.50). The texture is wonderful and showcases the kitchen’s flair with plating.

The team in the kitchen elevate the tender (oh, so tender) pressed pork belly to another level with fennel Jangajji (Korean veggie pickles) and a quenelle of smooth horseradish cream, superbly balanced ($29.50).

The duck breast was beautifully spiced and married well with a dynamic orange gel, endive and currants ($36.50). Some pieces were slightly chewy and just a wee bit dry. 

A side dish we adored was the grilled cos lettuce ($15.50), perked up with Australian mountain pepper and a quenelle of miso butter. Pepitas scattered on the dish added an adorable crunch.

Queenies is devoted to supporting local wine producers and has created a list with some of the best the Canberra region offers, including from Lark Hill, Mount Majura, Gallagher, Long Rail Gully and Contentious Character. All wines are $15 by the glass and $70 by the bottle.

Queenies has smartened up its outdoor area, making it inviting and comfy. Fairy lights add sparkle. Inside features some new chairs, a better configuration of furniture all round, a bit of desirable de-cluttering and other noticeable refinements. Well done.

Service is with personality and smiles all round although some refinements would be welcome. 

We ordered a fair number of dishes, but they began to come out far too quickly, which meant some hot dishes had cooled before we got to them. We love to share, and specified that’s what we would be doing.

Queenies needs to sharpen up on providing the right type of serving utensils (it’s hard to cut a piece of pork belly with tongs) and provide them as dishes are served. And, although it was a packed-out night, which is great to see, finished dishes need to be removed more promptly.