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Canberra Today 8°/11° | Tuesday, April 30, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Food shines at newly opened farmhouse

“It’s the food that makes Beltana Farm shine,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON. “Farmhouse shared plates are the go, served alongside a carefully selected list of Australian and local wines.” 

Newly opened Beltana Farm in Pialligo – set in a picturesque truffle orchard of more than 800 trees – is worth a visit just for the surroundings and to take in the rustic charm of architecture and interior design. 

Wendy Johnson.

But it’s the food that makes Beltana Farm shine. Farmhouse shared plates are the go, served alongside a carefully selected list of Australian and local wines.

The Beltana dining experience is relaxed, but efficient. It’s easy to simply sit back and savour every moment.

Our small dishes included a sensational cauliflower and gruyere croquette, slightly crunchy on the outside and soft and sensual on the inside ($7 each). The creativity continued with charcoal beetroot skewers, sliced not too thin but not too thick. ($9 each) The smokiness of the dish was intriguing, and we loved the myrtle and fresh horseradish.

The use of native ingredients is clever, including the ox tongue featuring lilli pilli and horseradish ($14 each). Don’t let the mention of tongue turn you off. Delicately sliced and skewered, the meat cooked to perfection. It’s soft and packed with flavour.

Beautifully presented is the potato and carrot galette, formed in the shape of a flower and served on top of a generous drizzle of buttermilk and sage ($24).

Our farm-food journey continued with succulent half-roasted chicken ($53) with a special stuffing, saltbush and a gorgeous tarragon jus. It goes unsaid that fresh herbs and other ingredients are grown onsite (or sourced as close to home as possible) and it’s delightful to see staff pick from the garden as needed.

Also moist was the ‘Nduja swordfish with hazelnuts, raising and crunchy bread crumbs ($32). ‘Ndjuja – a spicy, spreadable pork sausage widely used in Calabria – lifted the dish to another level and added a burst of colour.

Equally moist was the smoked lamb rump, accompanied with a smooth, tasty apple sauce and mustard seed ($58).

We applauded the “farm leaves” salad ($16), which looked as vibrant as it tasted. Simple salads are always welcome to help cut through when dining on multiple dishes. This version was created with a verjuice vinaigrette.

Beltana Farm offers a tasting menu for $110 a person, which tops off with a truffle magnum ice cream on a stick. The high-quality white chocolate is with a malt caramel. 

One wine we thoroughly enjoyed was the Linear Fiano (2023) from Hilltops, a citrus cool climate wine that is lovely and crisp.

The architecture at Beltana Farm is warm but sophisticated with dramatic (but intimate) wood elements, towering glass windows and a two-sided fireplace. Private dining is available. 

Accommodation is on-site (a cottage and three yurts). Truffle hunts are held regularly in winter.

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Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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