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Canberra Today 12°/14° | Monday, May 6, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Alfred would have loved it here

IF alive today, former Prime Minister Alfred Deakin would no doubt be proud to sit at a venue bearing his name, relaxing at a small place that concentrates on offering good food at decent prices.

The Deakin Espresso Bar and Café (formerly Double Shot) is under new ownership, with chef Josh Sargent at the helm in the kitchen serving breakfast and lunch (dinner to come once warmer weather blesses Canberra). Most recently Josh worked at Flint in the Vines, Shaw Vineyard, and he’s also done stints elsewhere in the ACT, and in Queensland and Canada.

Soup of the day is just $7 and at The Deakin you can munch on lighter dishes such as dips ($9 for a trio) or chilli salted calamari salad ($17.50). Those with real hunger pangs can go for the full-on grilled eye fillet with confit garlic mash, sauteed spinach (gotta get those greens in ya) and rich madeira jus ($26), or the steak sandwich with blue cheese, golden caramelised onions and beetroot chutney ($18.50).

I crave slow-braised food in winter and so ordered the Wagyu pot pie. It was an exceptionally generous serve of big cubes of tender beef and loaded with strips of salty bacon, healthy green peas and potato, all neatly tucked under a puff pastry lid ($18.50). It was a hearty meal, high on taste and very soul satisfying. Like most items at The Deakin, this dish is made in house (except for the puff pastry, which is time consuming and expensive to create). I enjoyed it with a cup of Ona Coffee made by a barista who loves to pump out quality cappuccinos, lattes, machiattos and more.

Other fave lunch dishes? Coopers beer battered barramundi ($18.50) and the prawn Linguine Puttanesca ($18.5). A rotating specials board is available and check out the house-made, decadent desserts.

The Deakin is a great local. Co-owner Sandy Spiers, a well-known Canberra freelance photographer, has kept the café layout the same, but is introducing improvements including new furniture in the lounge area (lobby of Deakin Chambers).

My experience is that some service components need TLC. I hit the café at what I call “the witching hour”… after the lunch rush when staff in some eateries lose focus (I’ve experienced this often over the years).

Even though there were only two other tables with customers, I had to get up and place my order at the counter. Same with paying. Still, I left with a happy tummy and will be back soon to try breakfast – perhaps the buttermilk pancakes, which you can have sweet or with baked bechamel and smoked salmon for something a little more savoury ($15.50).

The Deakin, Deakin Chambers, Duff Place, open seven days, 7am weekdays and 8am weekends until 5pm, with coffee/cake from 2.30pm). BYO (no corkage). Call 6282 6676.

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Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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