Dining / Baby steps into Civic

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Baby Su’s beef short rib rice bowl. Photo by Wendy Johnson

BABY Su downtown. It’s a new venture by the team behind Lazy Su in Braddon and we were keeping our fingers crossed that it would be just as good. It truly was.

Wendy Johnson
Wendy Johnson.

The Korean, fried-chicken burger was mouth watering and addictive. It’s only $12 and worth every bit. The spicy gochujang glaze is intriguing and the burger comes with cheese, lettuce, ssa?m mayo, and Japanese barbecue sauce. It packed a punch on flavours and is so playful.

Goodbye boring burgers we say. Even the fries had a bit of attitude. They’re waffle cut and served with umami salt (small $5 and large $9). Other burgers include the teriyaki cheese burger ($12), a vegetarian variety ($11) and the marinated, sliced-beef cheesesteak ($12).

The beef short rib rice bowl was another winner, although some slow-braised beef pieces were slightly chewy. The sushi rice was delish and soaked up the sensational flavours. The mizuna salad added lovely crunch and a bit of zing. The Japanese pickle did, too ($17). It was just the right proportion and hit the spot. My bet is the teriyaki salmon rice bowl would go down exceptionally well ($17) and so, too, would the miso-roasted pumpkin rice bowl ($16).

Japanese garden salad with yuzu vinaigrette. Photo by Wendy Johnson

Fried-chicken lovers will tremble with excitement at the wings and drummies with Baby Su’s secret seasoning. Choose from sweet and sour sauce or spicy gochujang buffalo sauce. Perfect with an icy cold beer on a hot day (actually, any day) – two pieces for $8 and four pieces for $15.

Other snack menu items include kimchi mac and cheese with umami panko crust ($8) and the Japanese garden salad with yuzu vinaigrette ($6), which my friend ordered with her burger. She found it a bit too “pucker power” and didn’t finish it. If you want to go all out give the kimcheese-loaded fries a go. They’re topped with cheese sauce, herbs and nori ($10) – a “moment on the lips, lifetime on the hips” kind of snack.

Shiny gold lucky cat figurines are a fun addition at Baby Su’s, with their left paws waving up and down enticing customers to come in.

A selection of gin and whisky. Photo by Wendy Johnson

Baby Su’s is licensed and offers great gins and whiskeys and interesting wines (not an extensive list, but that’s okay). The place is quick off the mark with serving, which is just as well because you can’t reserve a table. It’s in a great position in the exciting precinct around No Name Lane, and is in good company with Wild Panda, The Goods Wholefoods, Mayfair Espresso Café, Taco Taco, Terra, Ming’s Pantry, the Doughnut Department and Supa Bowl.

Baby Su, corner of West Row and Alinga Street, Civic, is open from noon every day.

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Wendy Johnson
Wendy Johnson: Food reviewer for Canberra CityNews magazine since 2004, covering stories for true foodies to digest.

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