The food was divine, that’s it really

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Beetroot tartare, apple and walnut… pretty on the plate and loads of love goes into patiently cutting ingredients. Photo: Wendy Johnson

THE food was divine. Those four words sum up our visit to Lamshed’s, a new food and wine establishment in Yarralumla.

Wendy Johnson
Wendy Johnson.

Three of us headed to lunch, thrilled there wasn’t an item we wouldn’t have ordered (this is a rare occasion). Be prepared to share and let your tastebuds dance, dance, dance. Don’t be shy – dishes are beautifully proportioned so you can graze without being overwhelmed.

The beetroot tartare, apple and walnut ($16) was pretty on the plate and loads of love goes into patiently cutting ingredients. The taste combo is sensational. What a tantalising start to our Lamshed’s journey.

One friend isn’t an eggplant fan but was prepared to give Lamshed’s take a go. She proclaimed the dish a winner ($15). The tempura was light and the white miso – such a versatile paste with great umami flavour – injected its personality in a wonderful way. Lamshed’s treats eggplant with true respect.

Eggplant tempura… Lamshed’s treats eggplant with true respect. Photo: Wendy Johnson

We adored both protein dishes and the radicchio, oak leaf and herb salad ($8) which cut through without competing. Sometimes salads want to hold all the power, but this version is happy to shine as a side.

Duck breast… a memorable blend of ingredients – lentils, pistachio and rhubarb. Photo: Wendy Johnson

The duck breast was melt-in-the-mouth and the dish another memorable blend of ingredients – lentils, pistachio and rhubarb ($29). We also adored the lamb ribs, nicely spiced (not too much, not too little). It married well with fennel, sumac and lemon ($17).

Dark-chocolate tart with fresh milk sorbet… perfect way to end a perfect meal. Photo: Wendy Johnson

We don’t normally order dessert, but staff convinced us to indulge with the dark-chocolate tart with fresh milk sorbet ($15). It was a perfect way to end a perfect meal.

Lamshed’s is named after one owner, Jeff Lamshed. “It’s a funny last name and we thought it would be a bit of a laugh,” says Jeff who grew up with the Ottoman Cuisine operators, first in Manuka, then Barton and also Sydney.

Jeff has also worked at Canberra’s Silo, Water’s Edge and Mocan and Green Grout and in Michelin Star establishments including Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, in Cornwall, and Restaurant Martin Wishart in Edinburgh.

At Ottomon, Jeff worked alongside good mate Matt Afpland, who has over the years developed sophisticated knowledge of wines, including at Rockpool Bar and Grill and highly reputable Melbourne establishments.

“We’ve always talked about opening a small place with a true wine bar feel and so here we are,” says Jeff. “Matt has added so much with a unique wine list.”

Lamshed’s offers a fabulous (and popular) $20 deal from 3pm to 5pm – six fresh oysters and a glass of wine.

The menu celebrates seasonal produce and changes as Lamshed’s feels it needs too.

Lamshed’s, 27 Bentham Street, Yarralumla. Open Tuesday, 3pm until late and Wed to Sunday, noon to late.

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Wendy Johnson
Wendy Johnson: Food reviewer for Canberra CityNews magazine since 2004, covering stories for true foodies to digest.

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