“The whole business of allocating a score as if the process of tasting wine as an objective exercise is flawed,” says wine columnist RICHARD CALVER.

The only time I’ve ever earned a score of 100 per cent for anything was in sixth form history when I wrote an essay on the assigned topic of the rise of the third Reich.

It focused on why fascism engendered popularity from the grassroots up, every sector of the then German society finding some support for Hitler as a strong leader who would “save the country”. 

That reminds me, a fascist and an idiot walk into a bar. The barman says ”What’s your order?’ And Donald Trump says: “Just water today.” 

The reason for the reference to my 100 per cent essay is that I was reading the Daily Wine news recently (perversely I read the collected stories about once a week) and a wine from the small House of Cards winery in the Margaret River was awarded a perfect score at the 2026 International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) global tasting.

This is the first ever 100 point score awarded by the esteemed IWSC.

I called the House of Cards winery to speak with joint owner and winemaker Travis Wray to get feedback on perfection. But alas, I didn’t receive a call back.

What led the judges to allocate a perfect score is, from the report, also a mystery with one judge commenting: “There’s nothing more that this wine could do.” 

I shared the story of the allocation of the perfect score with family on Father’s Day as we drank a 2024 Tamar Ridge Single Block Kayena Pinot Noir.

This Tassie pinot noir was very pleasant on opening and developed in the glass. There was a mixture of dark and red fruits, blackberry in particular, in the bouquet and on taste.

It had good length and a complex finish with a mix of acidity and tannins coming through.

I think we opened it too early; another few years would assist. I later checked the 2027 Haliday Wine Companion, received as a Father’s Day present, and it allocated a 94 point score to the wine. I scratched my head as to how it might have engendered another six points. What is the path to perfection?

So, I said to my two adult children and my son-outlaw: “What would a wine need to demonstrate to get a 100 out of 100 score from you?” 

My daughter, who is in hospitality, said: “If it were a chardonnay, then there would have to be a balance between the elements; fruit which would need to be pure, any oak or butter flavours balanced. It wouldn’t shout; it would draw you in, with texture and mouth feel.” 

“Not sure”, said my son. Fair enough. 

But the comment from my daughter’s partner was interesting. He said: “It wouldn’t just be about the wine. It would need to evoke a memory or a time when you were really, really happy.”

I threw him for a loop when I said: “Have you been reading Proust?”

“Uh, no,” he said. 

“Well,” I said donning my didactic hat, “the Proust effect is where a sensory stimulus, like an aroma of a lemon madeleine in Proust’s case, triggers a deep emotional memory from the past, an involuntary but fundamental sensation.

“For me, the perfect score can only be allocated if the subjective element of wine tasting is acknowledged and the sort of issue you speak about is embraced.

“The whole business of allocating a score as if the process of tasting wine as an objective exercise is flawed.

“For example, a chardonnay, even one of 100 points, won’t be judged a better wine than the pinot noir we tasted tonight when I’m consuming it with this lovely beef casserole.” 

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